Drinking My Way Through the Okanagan

Well, there was eating, too.

by Erin

I’ve recently returned home from the Okanagan, where I was a guest of the Okanagan Wine Festivals. It had been nine years (!!!) since I had last been out to visit BC’s beautiful wine country, and I have to say, it was almost like I had never been. Something like 130 wineries now populate the 250-kilometre valley (not to mention charming restaurants, impressive lake homes and sleek hotels and resorts).

Still, despite the massive growth, the pristine natural setting still remains largely intact with deep blue lakes piercing through tree-filled foothills. The Okanagan is Canada’s only dessert, and with dry, arid conditions with temperatures that can swing as much as 30 degrees Celsius in one day. Winters can reach -20℃ and summers can hit 40℃.

Having been granted its first appellation (Golden Mile, near Oliver) just this year, VQA wines are under the overarching banner of “Okanagan” which means fruit can come from anywhere in the valley, though many winemakers do prefer estate grown berries for top tier wines.

Check out my full report on spending a week in the Okanagan here. But in the meantime, and in the effort of length and aesthetics, I thought I would separate my wine reviews from the week into one, neat entry.

BC is the Okanagan’s biggest market, and after that it seems Alberta is next. We don’t see too many BC wines in Ontario, which is a shame, but occasionally we’ll get some drifting our way. If you see a BC wine in your local shop – especially the ones listed below –  they’re worth picking up.

The View, Kelowna

Riesling 2012, $16.90
A typical nose of petrol and lime with some chalky minerality, the palate is vibrant with tangy green apple and lime flavours and fresh acidity.

Pinotage Reserve 2012, $24.90
An unusual grape for the Okanagan – indeed for Canada – owner Jennifer Molgat believes the South African varietal has a bright future in BC. A toasty nose of black fruit and smoke the palate is rich and savoury with smoked meat, cracked peppercorn, cedar spice and some vague black fruit.

Sparkling NV, $19.90
A mix of Riesling, Gewurtztraminer and Pinotage of all things, this pretty pink sparkler offer bright, but gentle bubbles, good acid and easy drinking flexibility with flavours of fresh citrus and red berries.

Summerhill Pyramid Winery, Kelowna

Cipes “Ariel” Sparkling 1998, $88
A classic blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with a dollop of Pinot Meunier, this is an exciting sparkling wine that’s full of age and charming oxidative notes. Having just recently been disgorged after nearly 16 years on its lees, the nose is full of marmalade, mushroom, baked pie crust and subtle wildflower notes. The palate is still intriguingly fresh with focused bubbles and tart green apple vibrancy mixing with sugar cookie and cider flavours.

Riesling 2013, $29.90
Made from organic vines dating back to 1978, and fermented on wild yeasts, this is a truly natural wine made on biodynamic principals. Crisp and bright on the palate with nervy, yet balanced acidity and fresh flavours of lime, mineral, yellow grapefruit and faint petrol.

Grasslands Organic Merlot 2010, $68
Famed Canadian artist Robert Bateman paints the labels for Summerhill’s “Grassland” series, and the winery donates a portion of the proceeds to Bateman’s Foundation for environmental initiatives. This bold but elegant red spent 31 months in neutral barrel, and the winery says it is built to last beyond a decade. A nose of tamarind, red and black fruits, mincemeat and baking spice. Rich and powerful with fine tannin and fresh acid, flavours of red cherry and black licorice with a bright, kirsch uplift there’s a slight, pleasing heat on the finish.

Jackson Triggs and Inniskillin, Oliver

Inniskillin “Discovery Series” Chenin Blanc 2014, $16.99
Refreshing and crisp with fresh orchard fruit and chalky mineral notes. Poised with nice focus and bright, balanced acid.

Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Meritage 2012, $25.99
Predominately Merlot, this is smooth and round with fine-firm tannin and flavours of cassis, black pepper, earth and cedar.

Jackson-Triggs “Sunrock” Shiraz 2011, $34.99
Cassis and savoury spice on the nose with a slight meaty note. The palate is rich and powerful with fine, well integrated tannin and flavours of black pepper, earth and dark fruit.

See Ya Later Ranch, Okanagan Falls

Major’s Block 2012,
A blend of Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, deep red and black fruits and savoury spice show through on the nose, while the medium bodied palate is juicy and powerful. Spice, licorice, and mixed berry fruit flavours.

Black Hills Estate Winery, Oliver

Alibi 2014, $25
A blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon, there’s flint, tropical fruit amd slate on the nose. Generous mouthfeel with great balance between ripe fruit and slate flavours. Nice length.

Syrah 2012, $37
I’m generally a big fan of Okanagan Syrahs, and Black Hills makes a poised and elegant example, with floral, black pepper, dried bay leaf and blackberry on the nose. Palate is generous without going over the top. Spice and ripe red fruits are lifted by cran-cherry acid.

Carmenere 2011, $53
A perfect example of how Okanagan winemakers aren’t afraid to colour outside the lines and experiment with varietals not usually seen here. This is savoury and masculine with white pepper, fresh celery and blackberry aromas that are echoed on the palate. Well integrated tannins offer nice support to this well-structured wine.

Tinhorn Creek, Oliver

Pinot Gris 2013, $18.99
A delicious summer sipper for crisp refreshment in a glass. With ripe orchard fruit flavours – peach, pear – and some faint blossom mixing with stony mineral, bring on the dockside dining of lobster rolls, turkey burgers and avocado and crab salad.

Gewurtztraminer 2013, $14.99
Aromatic with honeysuckle, rose petal and tropical fruit notes, which follows through to the palate, it retains freshness thanks to bright acid. Nice weight and just slightly off dry.

“Oldfield Series” Merlot 2011, $26.49
Smoke, rich red fruit and dark earth make for an alluring nose. Full bodied on the palate with fine-firm tannin and flavours of rich, ripe cherries, some baking spice and warm, toasty notes. Smooth and supple. Very nice.

Forbidden Fruit Winery, Cawston (Similkameen Valley)

Pearsuasion, $18.95
Similkameen is the heart of the Canada’s organic farming – and everyone here will let you know that. Forbidden Fruit Winery makes wine from 100% organic fruits grown on the 142 acre farm. Pearsuasion, is an off-dry table white made mostly from Asian pear with a bit of Euro pear blended in. Highly aromatic with floral and spice aromas, and a rich, creamy mouthfeel with flavours of white pepper, rose petal, lychee and, of course, pear, this is almost like a cross between a Muscat and Gewurtztraminer. Would be nice with spicy curries or coconut-milk based sauces.

Caught Apricot Mistelle, $26.95
Mistelle is the Quebecois term for fortified liqueur. Forbidden Fruit fortified its apricot wine with an odourless, colourless, neutral grain alcohol. Waxy on the palate with flavours of marmalade, peaches and apricot, a nice seam of acidity offers freshness and tang to this sweet, rich wine.

Rustic Roots, Cawston

Cherry 2013, $18.90
While the nose has a distinct amaretto aroma, the palate is not unlike Pinot Noir with flavours of red berry, earth, almond and a subtle spiciness. Soft and round with fine tannin.

Fameuse Sparkling Wine 2013, $25.90
A lively and fresh bubbly made from the 100-year-old Fameuse apple tree on Rustic Roots’ property, with a bit of Santa Rosa plum wine blended in. A nose of apple jelly, dried strawberries and subtle chalk, the palate offers a good balance between red fruit flavours and earthy notes, with a pleasing, bitter-nut finish.

Clos du Soleil, Keremeos

“Growers Series” Pinot Blanc 2014,$19.90
Fresh and bright this is a fantastic summer sipper with a nose of mineral, orchard fruit, and some citrus. The palate is clean and fresh with a surprisingly oily texture, and flavours of pear and apple.

Celestial 2012, $26.90
A Merlot-dominated blend of all five Bordeaux red varietals, this is rich and juicy with aromas of cassis and violet florals that carry through to the palate with the addition of black licorice and spicy notes. Great depth and character –  a joy to drink.

Signature 2012, $44.90
A Bordeaux blend made of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with tiny amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this is an impressive and luxurious red wine. Alluring aromas of black fruit, spice and earth, this is still quite young, with firm tannin that promise to soften over the next few years. Rich and powerful with notes of cassis, tobacco, dried herbs and earth, there’s a pleasing heat on the finish.

Bella Wines, Naramata

Sparkling Rosé Brut Natural, Oliver, $23.90
Made from 100% Gamay from organic grapes sourced in Oliver, BC, this delicate, pink sparkler shows a fine, soft mousse, bright acid, and gentle flavours of rose petal and red berry fruit.

Sparkling Blanc de Blanc 2013, $23.90
Poised yet energetic, aromas of shortbread, citrus and wild flowers show through on the nose, while the palate is bright and tart, with vibrant bubbles and flavours of pie dough and citrus with a long finish.

Kraze Legz Winery, Okanagan Falls

Skaha Unoaked Chardonnay 2013, $19.95
Bright and crisp on the nose with mineral and white pear. Fresh and clean on the palate with flavours of tree fruit and floral notes mixing with mineral and even a touch of anise or raw fennel.

Pentâge, Penticton

Gamay Noir, 2013
Medium bodied and easy going, this is a great picnic wine. Red cherry and black pepper  flavours with smooth tannins and silky texture.

Viognier Rousanne Marsanne 2013, $27
Looking to the Rhone for inspiration, this is classically styled with perfumed aromatics and a round, oily palate. Flavours of peach and stone fruit, white florals and a touch of beeswax.