How a $20 Wine Tastes After 16 Years
We go to a lot of wine tastings.
Not only do we host them, of course, but we can’t tell you how many tastings we go to as students every year.
And while we almost always find at least one or two gems at each event, rarely does a tasting make the favourable impression as one hosted by Montes last week.
Related: Top Notch – and Environmentally Friendly – Chilean Wines
Erin was invited to a small gathering with Montes director of winemaking Aurelio Montes Jr., who was in Toronto to discuss his family-owned winery’s environmental initiatives (that’s discussed a little further on).
Pleasantly surprised that she loved every wine presented, she was even more impressed by one little wine that could – a $20 Cabernet, that was drinking beautifully well after 16 years.
Erin, take it from here.
The tasting showed seven exceptional wines, including three vintages of the Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, the cult favourite Purple Angel, and one of the best Sauvignon Blanc’s I’ve ever tasted. The only disappointment is that a few of these wines are not yet available in Ontario … and one I wouldn’t be able to afford even if I could get my hands on it.
Reviews of each of the wines are below, but let’s talk about Montes Alpha Cabernet for a moment. A wine that retails for a hair under $20 in Ontario, it can easily be lumped into the Tuesday Night Wine category. But here’s the kicker: it has the stuffing for long-term cellaring with unbelievable results.
We tried the current 2012 release, which is drinking very well now. The 2011 – the vintage currently on LCBO shelves – a somewhat tougher year, but powerful and brooding yet completely approachable. And the 1999 – stunning with its Bordeaux-esque grace, and by far my favourite of the day.
I don’t normally have the confidence, let alone the desire, to let a $20 wine age 16 years. I asked Aurelio his thoughts on producing a value driven wine that can be put away for nearly two decades.
“I am really excited about this wine,” Aurelio said of the ’99, noting it was wowing crowds at each of his stops on his Canadian tour. But like any sensible wine maker, he is cautious to suggest that every vintage can make it over the long haul.
“Yes, with the 2012, absolutely,” he told me after the tasting. “But with the 2011, it was a tougher year, a cooler year, so maybe not with that one.”
2012 was also the year Montes rolled out its dry farming initiative – one of several environmentally friendly programs at the winery – with the Alpha wines.
Montes, a well established, but certainly not the largest winery in the country, may very well be a leader in environmental sustainability. With programs in place for educating school children, work initiatives for unemployed women, as well as researching and implementing everything from the preservation of wildlife on their vineyards to reducing their carbon footprint, Montes has invested hundreds of thousands of dollars in improving the environment that provides their living.
“We’re really taking care of not only wines, but people,”Aurelio, who has also worked in Australia, Burgundy and California learning his craft, told the group. “Wine is made by humans. Happy people, happy wines. Simple.”
Montes, which was started by Aurelio’s father in 1997, is constantly challenging itself to increase its environmental sustainability. The first South American winery to receive the GRI certification for its earth friendly programs, one of the more recent development has been the adoption of dry farming that is showing up in the 2012 Alpha wines. Dry farming is exactly what it sounds like: farming without the use of irrigation.
“We were really worried about the use of water,” Aurelio said, noting that from September until May – chile’s growing and harvesting seasons – there isn’t a drop of rain. Previously, Montes was watering the vines, but dry farming saves 840-million litres of water a year.
“The equivalent of enough water for 20-thousand people.”
Dry farming is a technique adopted by draught-ridden areas employ to produce excellent fruit without the use of water. The idea is that water-stressed vines will grower more flavourful, concentrated grapes of higher quality. And, the lack of moisture will force the plant to dig its roots deeper into the ground in search of water.
The drawback to dry farming, ironically, is also the benefit: on one hand, stressed vines produce less fruit. In Montes’ case, grapes have reduced from 10 tons per hectare to 6 tons, which means means where the winery previously was able to get one bottle of wine per vine, it’s not only getting half a bottle.
On the other hand, concentration, flavour profile and skin-to-pulp ratio of the grapes have greatly increased. To Aurelio that means a better product and better value to the consumer.
The loss in quantity and increase in quality should spell price hikes. Should, but it won’t. Aurelio says his dad insisted on keeping the prices the same, to give loyal to keep loyal customers happy and gain new customers with Alpha’s exceptional value.
Mission accomplished.
Reviews
Montes “Outer Limits” Sauvignon Blanc, Aconcagua Valley, Chile 2014
$19.95 Vintages 389643 (due for release in 2016)
Keep an eye out for this Sauv Blanc. It won’t be released until next year, but it is well worth keeping on your “must buy” list. Easily one of the best Sauvignon Blancs I have ever tasted, it focuses more on fruit and less on the green herbal note that’s the calling card of so many Sauvies on the market. There’s a fresh balance of asparagus and mineral, with a round, ripe tropical fruit flavour, while eight months of lees contact makes for a creamy mouthfeel that highlighted by vibrant acidity. Just delicious.
Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault, Itata Valley, Chile 2014
$19.95 Not Available in Ontario
What a bummer this can’t be found here. Hailing from 100 year old vineyards, this is remarkably similar to Beaujolais Cru, this pale ruby wine features carbonic strawberry and cherry flavours with crushed black peppercorn. Bright acidity and light tannin offers lip smacking food friendly appeal that would be perfect slightly chilled with picnic fare.
Montes “Purple Angel,” Colchagua Valley, Chile 2012
$62.95 Vintages 62364 (due for release in December 2015)
The most successful wine in Montes’ portfolio, only 2,000 cases are made each year, and it is “always sold out.” 92% Carmenere with 8% Petit Verdot added for “colour, acidity and tannin.” With a dusty nose of Fig Newton, dried herbs, tamarind paste, soy sauce and faded leather, the palate is dense and powerful with chewy tannins and bright acidity. Flavours of tart cherry, clay/earth, dark chocolate and baking spice with a menthol note in the finish.
Montes “Taita” Marchigue Vineyard, Colchagua Valley, Chile 2007
$350 Not Available
This specialty project of Chilean fine wine is now in its 25th year and made in such limited production that only 36 bottles are made available for the Canadian market. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% “Winemaker’s blend,” the nose shows stewed fruits, red cherry, spice cupboard and a savoury, salty soy note. The nose follows through to the palate, which is powerful and structured with dense tannins and long finish. Still youthful at eight years old, I would lay this down for another few years.
Montes “Alpha” Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Chile 1999
Not Available
What a treat to taste a wine that can age so brilliantly. Showing more savoury/earthy notes of wild herbs, black licorice, mincemeat, soy sauce and cassis, the wine is still fresh and vibrant with fine-firm tannin, and silky palate. It makes me want to pick up a few bottles of the 2012 to enjoy in 2028.
Montes “Alpha” Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Chile 2011
$19.95 Vintages 322586 (currently available)
Rich, dense, powerful and masculine, the nose offers pastrami, brining spice, coffee beans and black fruit, along with that telltale soy sauce note I seem to get in all Montes’ wines. Despite the cooler vintage, the palate is still bold with grippy acid and a firm backbone of acidity. The nose is echoed in the palate, which has a long, warm, Nyquil flavoured finish.
Montes “Alpha” Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley, Chile 2012
$19.95 Vintages 322586 (due for release in about two months)
The 2012 should be hitting shelves within the next few months. The first of the Montes line to be dry farmed, look for macerated cherry, mincemeat and clove and cinnamon notes on the nose. The palate shows blackberry and menthol notes with dry, dusty tannins and bracing acidity and a warm finish. A lovely wine that’s perfect for enjoying now with red meats and hearty vegetarian dishes, I’m also planning on buying an extra couple of bottles for my cellar.