Wine About the Weather

Or, our wine picks for a wet, cold, snowy start to Spring

We have a few dear friends from the maritimes and have heard more than once the jokes about braving the elements on the east coast: “Don’t like the weather? Wait five minutes,” and, “Don’t like what’s happening out your front door? Go look out back,” are on heavy rotation with those we’ve met.

However, while we’re not big on one-upmanship, may we humbly suggest this so-called spring season in Ontario may give Easterners a run for their roller-coaster weather money. We started cobbling together this spring wine piece on the last day of winter, typing away while looking out the window at a fine, cold drizzle that blurred the view outside into water colour smudges of 50 shades of grey occasionally broken by the yellow smear of passing headlights.

The next day, the official first day of spring, was grey and overcast in Toronto, with crazy gusty winds and a dampness that inspired a rustic dinner of pasta and bolognese sauce (Courtney fears we’ll be eating hearty, braised meats til June). And today, while The Weather Network says it feels like minus 6, it’s currently bright and sunny, and feels warm enough that an outside run may be doable without the Under Armour long underwear.

So you could say we’re viewing this early Spring with both optimism and trepidation. As anxious as we are for the robins, crocuses, fiddleheads, ramps and patios… this week’s weather – and the vague, ominous threat of something wicked this way comes next week – we’re not sure if we can really let our woollen guard down just yet.

Going from sub-zero and sunny to above zero and cloudy and vice-versa, is trying our patience; thanks to our efficient German heritage, we like things organized and orderly, and this year has been anything but.

We’ve spent the winter suffocating – yet still freezing – under pounds of sweaters, scarves, coats, boots, mitts and hats, and assaulted with snow ripping sideways across the frozen tundra of Toronto – and it seemed Spring would never get here. But, finally, here it is, in all its wet, grey, somewhat dubious glory, so keeping in mind the Law of Attraction, let’s celebrate shall we, and offer these wine selections to the Gods of Spring and Sunshine in hopes they heed our desperate prayers.

Wines to Try This Spring

Henri Bourgeois “Les Baronnes” Sancerre, Loire 2012
$24.95 Vintages 542548
Delicious and fresh this wine is like a liquid fruit cup. Aromas of white cherry, pear, and peach, the medium bodied palate is fresh and bright with orchard fruit flavours and light stone with a subtly bitter grapefruit finish. An exceptional crowd pleaser that offers great food flexibility, try this with chicken kabobs or lemon pasta with peas and pancetta.

Trius Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2011
$18.95 Vintages 251470
We’re not out of the frozen woods yet, so this weighty, rich and creamy Chard will help while away the chilly evenings, framing roast pork loin with mushrooms, lemon roast chicken or cheddar cheese plates with elegance. Aromas of vanilla pod, grilled peaches,  tropical fruit and french toast follow through on the palate, which not surprisingly, is decadently creamy, but with a solid backbone of acid to support the weight.

Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, Valdadige, Italy 2013
$17.95 Vintages 106450
Santa Margherita sells 70-thousand cases of Pinot Grigio in Ontario alone, and believe it or not, the winery has been rated completely carbon neutral by Canadian company Carbon Zero. No easy feat when everything from planting to delivery has to be taken into account. Anyway, if that shows you anything, it’s that the winery takes its top selling Pinot Grigio very seriously. We have to admit it’s been a while since cracking open a bottle – perhaps we were unfairly dismissive to this ubiquitous quaffer. But revisiting the wine when Santa Margherita’s sommelier Federico Trost came to town, it was a delightful surprise. Aromas of peach, pear and orchard fruit, mingle with yellow apple, subtle lime zest and mineral notes. The palate is mid-weight and fresh, and almost creamy, with uplifting flavours of fresh orchard fruit and wet stone with a lively acidity and decent length. Pair with pasta primavera, asparagus risotto or fritto misto.

Pink House Wine Co. Chardonnay-Merlot, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2012
$12.95 LCBO 324558
The fun, edgy and youthful label of the Speck brothers, this coral-orange rose offers an easy drinking style that’s round, ripe and easy going – perfect for backyard parties and whiling away afternoons on a patio somewhere. With aromas and flavours of ripe red berries and citrus, this is great with vegetarian pizza, chicken curry and fish tacos.

Chateau des Charmes “Old Vines” Cabernet Merlot, VQA Niagara on the Lake 2012
$16.25 Vintages 222372
The Bosc family describes this as the little brother to the top-tier Equuleus, which is only released in top Vintages. But as a little brother, it definitely brings something to the table, offering a mix of dark fruits, spice and smokey flavours with a slight note of earthy wild herbs. It’s drinking well now with a little decanting, but will reward the patient with another year in the cellar. Try with a vegetarian ragu or aged salty cheeses like Parmesan.

Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico, Italy 2012
$19.70 LCBO 267260
A reliable table mate that’s always available at a decent price, this leans more to the Old World savoury side of the spectrum than the New World fruity side. Aromas of blueberry, wild flowers and a curious, hoppy, beer-like note, the palate has fine but firm, dry tannin, a good core of acidity and flavours of scorched earth and iron/blood mixing with dark berries. Try with braised lamb and rosemary, eggplant involtini or chicken cacciatore.

Promovi Grandi Mura Salento Primitivo, Puglia, Italy 2011
$12.95 LCBO 361469
A prime example as to why tasting blind is a good idea; with a $12 price tag and a pretty cheap looking label, there wasn’t a lot of hope this wine would really go places. But, low expectations can heed big rewards: rustic and earthy, this has an alluring nose of raisin, wet fall leaves, prune and steeped tea. The palate is rich and slightly sweet with a spicy, earthy nose that full of baked dark fruits. A great partner for beef braises and strong cheese plates on these chilly, wet early spring days.

Ravine Vineyard Meritage, VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2011
LCBO 285627 $24.95
Already fading from ruby to garnet, this cool-climate Bordeaux blend from the challenging ’11 vintage is a bit muted on the nose, but eventually opens up to reveal purple flowers,fresh tobacco, raisin and smoke aromas. The medium bodied palate is balanced with grippy tannin and earthy flavours of dark fruit, clay and spice. Decant for an hour and then enjoy with steak au poivre, beef-stuffed cabbage rolls or eggplant and zucchini terrine.