Erin and Krug Sitting in a Tree
Ok, maybe not a tree… it was the 58th unfinished floor of the Trump Tower in downtown Toronto.
A 13-thousand square foot penthouse suite with a sweeping views of all sides of the city, and 20-foot plus soaring cathedral ceilings. Even under the scaffolding and exposed electric cable, it still reverberated easy opulence, and perhaps that’s why it was the chosen as the stage for Olivier Krug, the man behind his namesake Champagne, arguably one of the finest in the world.
“Grand Cuvee is not something that ends up in your glass by accident,” he states. Certainly not. With prices starting around $270 a bottle, it’s not exactly a house pour. At least not in our houses.
However, if our last name was Krug, things would likely be different, as Olivier says he has a glass everyday. “You don’t need a celebration to open a glass of Krug,” he says with a smile.
Olivier, an easy going man with a laid back elegance, spends most of his time promoting his champagne to markets around the world – our meeting happens on a one-day stop in Toronto, sandwiched between visits to Montreal and New York. It could be an exhausting schedule, but Olivier’s energetic passion for his family business seems to know no bounds. When asked about the grape blends that go into Krug champagne, he tells a story of asking an artist friend of his how many colours of blue he uses in his paintings of the sea.
“It’s irrelevant,” he concludes.
However, for those interested in learning more about the specific bottle they are drinking, Krug has ID numbers on all their bottles, which, when plugged into the company website, offers details like how long it was aged in the cellar and how many wines went into the final blend.
Repeated frequently throughout our 40 minute chat, was how important quality is to Olivier. It goes beyond the price tag, to ensuring Krug’s place in history and reputation as the premier Champagne house remains unchallenged.
Olivier is focused on making sure his wines – of which there are only three: Grand Cuvée, rosé and vintage (of which three are offered: a blend of vineyards, or a very rare offering of single vineyard Chardonnay grapes and single vineyard Pinot Noir grapes) – are of uncompromising quality. It was a lesson passed down over the five generations before him. Olivier’s great, great, great grandfather, Joseph Krug, left a secure position at the then prestigious Jaquesson champagne house (it still exists, but is a minor player), to open Krug in 1843. A few years after opening Krug, Joseph wrote a diary about making quality champagne – it was given to Olivier when he joined the company in the 90s, though he only got around to reading it about three years ago.
“When you grow up with it you think your know it all,” he admits of his younger years.
The diary contains all kinds of philosophies, facts and figures, which is helpful, since Olivier says the Grand Cuvée recipe is not written down – though Olivier does help with the tasting process.
While Olivier does consider the vintage champagnes as the jewel in the Krug crown, Olivier says Joseph was interested in producing a premium champagne every year, not just the great ones, and so Krug continues to put its efforts into making a prestigious non-vintage.
“Grand Cuvée should be your focus. It should offer everything.”
Krug Grand Cuvée Brut, Champagne, France NV
$271.97 Vintages 38562
Pale gold with a fine, pin-prick bubbles, the nose offers peach and nectarine, tinned apple juice and mineral aromas. Full bodied and rich on the palate with orchard fruit, delicate, yet lively mousse and bright acidity, this is a sheer joy to drink. 95 points.
Krug Rosé, Champagne, France NV
chartonhobbs.com
Salmon orange with aromas of red berries and floral notes. Dry, but lively on the palate with red fruit and flavours and persistent, elegant bubbles. A fantastic bubbly that would pair nicely with rich seafoods, porkloin or mushroom dishes. 95 points.
Krug Vintage Champagne, France 2000
$275 chartonhobbs.com
Deep gold with green apple, lemon shortbread, wildflower and orchard fruit on the nose, the palate has incredible focus with a fine mousse and flavours of chalky mineral, brioche and lemon. Very fresh and bright with both power and elegance. 95 points.