Does Size Matter? The Personal Side of Big Wineries

It seems we’re all just a little skeptical of big business, right?

It’s far cooler to shop at your local farmer’s market than Loblaws, you’re a better person for buying your latte from the hipster barrista place down the street than Starbucks, and you show everyone how serious your are about wine when you select your Friday night tipple from the boutique winery versus the major wine conglomerate.

Hey, we get it. Farmer’s market? We’re there. Local cafe? Check. Boutique wineries? Love.

But earlier last week, we were invited to take part in an insightful and utterly engaging trip to Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs and Le Clos Jordanne, all wineries owned by Constellation – the world’s largest wine company.

A Bit of History

Inniskillin was the plucky upstart of Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser back in 1974; they owned the pioneering winery until 1992 and during that time helped put Ontario on the the world’s radar for Inniskillin’s exceptional Icewine. It was eventually sold to Vincor, and Vincor subsequently bought by Constellation in 2006.

BC-based Jackson-Triggs, already established in the Okanagan since ’93, opened its Ontario winery in Niagara on the Lake in 2000, being bought out by Vincor a few years later.

And finally, Le Clos Jordanne waas started in 2000 as a joint project between Vincor  and Burgundy’s Boisset family to make super premium, terroir-driven Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Eventually the Boissets bowed out and, as already stated, Vincor became part of Constellation.

Keeping a Common Touch

Despite their massive size (even before being bought out JT & Inniskillin were among the larger Niagara wineries), and considerable financial backing, what’s always been truly impressive is their ability to offer wines that are quality focused, and show a real sense of place – at very good value. Equally impressive is how each winery maintains its own identity and each winemaker seemingly able to captain their own ship.

Inniskillin

The first stop of the day was Inniskillin’s famed Montague Vineyard. Niagara excels at Chardonnay, and arguably, Montague Chards are among the best of the best. Creamy, elegant and powerful with smoke and tropical fruit richness, the wines get their weight from the ideally situated vineyard that is among the warmest in Niagara. Montague’s heavy clay soil is not irrigated, forcing the roots of the 30 year old vines to dig down deep.

Next, we stopped by the Brae Burn Vineyard, to taste Viognier planted in 2003. Filled with perfume, subtle stone fruit and spicy ginger, Inniskillin winemaker Bruce Nicholson says Viognier only offers those heady aromatics and mouth-filling flavours when grape growers have the nerve to let it fully ripen – and that can be a bit unsettling in cool climate Niagara.

But it seems Bruce is a bit of a gambling man: he took on the challenge of producing a sparkling Cab Franc Icewine – a project he says was the most difficult he’s ever taken on. Stating that Icewine by itself is a “high risk, high reward” enterprise, getting the bubbles into it can be a bit of a scientific nightmare. But the results are astonishingly good. See all reviews at the end of this piece.

Jackson-Triggs

Just before lunch was a stop at Jackson-Triggs’ Delaine Vineyard – 100 acres of top quality land in the Niagara Peninsula – it grows a bit of everything, though for this visit we were just trying an impressive Fume Blanc and peppery, sophisticated Syrah, that, like most Niagara Syrahs, are closer to Rhône in style.

Winemaker Marco Piccoli is also doing some really impressive things with sparkling wine – a style he says he thinks is a leader for Niagara. Pouring three bubblies during a lunch: one that really stood out was an energetic, fresh sparkling Sauvignon Blanc that’s partially aged in older French oak, to offer a little complexity.

And later this year, look for a Chardonnay Musque sparkling to be released just before the holidays. Taking inspiration from Marco’s home country of Italy, it will be a light, quaffable bubbly done in the style of Moscato d’Asti.

Le Clos Jordanne

Raised a little above King Street, is the absolutely breathtaking vineyard site of Le Clos Jordanne. Just like the production facility on South Service Road, the vineyards are not open to public tours, though the bucolic setting of the netted vines (needed to keep the hungry birds away, but actually offer an air of gauzy romance), lazily stretching trees and clustered picnic tables was a charming way to relax with a glass of wine at the end of a very busy day.

Le Clos Jordanne Pinot & Chard

With Le Clos’ charasmatic French winemaker Sebastien Jacquey leading us through a tasting of 2011 Pinot Noir from the Claystone, Le Clos Jordanne and Le Grand Clos vineyards, it’s abundantly clear, Sebastien is looking for terroir-driven wines of style and substance, with both longevity and reaching a wider audience.

The winery is now sustainable, having veered away from its organic roots in 2010, a move Sebastien says was to offer more flexibility against disease. Wines like Le Clos’ Village Reserve, which is a blend of grapes from various vineyards, offer an easier drinking style that’s more immediately approachable, while the aim for the single vineyard wines, like Le Grand Clos, Sebastien recommends leaving for five years.

Wines

Inniskillin “Montague Vineyard” Chardonnay, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara 2012
$24.95 inniskillin.com
Full bodied and elegantly voluptuous with aromas of toast, creme brulee, baked apple and creamed corn. The palate is creamy and rich with smoke, caramel, tropical fruit and a bit of pear, this is powerful wine that’s perfect for enjoying during the cool fall evenings alongside corn and bacon chowder or with a slice of locally made Five Brothers cheese.

Inniskillin “Reserve Series” Viognier , VQA Niagara Peninsula, 2012 
$19.95 inniskillin.com
Lovely floral, peach and spicy ginger focused aromatics that follow through on the palate. Creamy texture with considerable length, this is a polished wine that would be lovely with your Thanksgiving turkey or seafood curry.

Inniskillin “Estate Seris” Pinot Grigio, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2012 
$13.95 inniskillin.com
A bright and fun nose of subtle peach and pear aromatics, with a crisp and refreshing palate. Great choice to kick start dinner parties, or pair with fried calamari or vegetarian appetizers.

Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Sparkling Icewine, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2012
$120 inniskillin.com
Enticing cassis and strawberry aromas and flavours with a great seam of acidity to keep the wine fresh and focused, offering lots of depth and plenty of appeal. Delicious with strong cheeses, or try with Szechuan-spiced duck breast.

Jackson-Triggs “Delaine” Fume Blanc, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2012
$24.95 jacksontriggswinery.com
A fantastic take on the Sauvignon Blanc wine style created by Mondavi. Fermentation began in tank and finished in barrel, where it continued to age for four months offering a smokey, weighty feel to the otherwise bright, tropical, herbaceous Sauv Blanc. Certainly there is still a kiwi, lychee, herbal component, but the oak aging brings a bit more seriousness to the wine. Try with roast pork loin in creamy mushroom sauce or lightly smoked trout.

Jackson-Triggs “Delaine” Syrah, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2011
$32.95  jacksontriggswinery.com 
Cool climate Niagara Syrahs need to hang for a very long time to achieve optimal ripeness – here the grapes aren’t picked until as late as November 10 after everything else has come in. The nose reveals a crushed black pepper, tamarind, campfire smoke, and ripe black fruit. The palate is mid weight but lean and focused, with a mineral edge and flavours of violet incense, black peppercorn and plum. Bright acid and fine grain tannin make for an appealing Rhone style red. Try with grilled lamb chops with rosemary and garlic.

Jackson-Triggs “Entourage Grand Reserve” Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, VQA Ontario 2009
$29.95 LCBO 353078
An exciting and exuberant bubbly that is bright, clean and fun. With a fine mousse and zesty lemon-lime, kiwi and lychee notes, this is an elegant fizz with lots of crowd appeal. Try with grilled proscuitto and asparagus appetizers or mildly spicy crab cakes.

Le Clos Jordanne “Claystone Terrace” Pinot Noir, VQA Twenty Mile Bench 2011
$40 leclosjordanne.com
Bright ruby with aromas of chocolate walnut, cranberry cocktail and mild spice the palate is mid weight, with flavours of underbrush, raspberry and dark chocolate. Bitter cranberry on the finish with fresh acidity and fine tannin. Enjoy with roast leg of lamb or braised beef.

Le Clos Jordanne “Claystone Terrace” Chardonnay, VQA Twenty Mile Bench 2011
$40 leclosjordanne.com
A sophisticated and sleek Chardonnay that offers aromas of flint, green apple, moderate smoke and subtle vanilla notes. The palate is mid weight with crisp acidity and an almost beeswax texture. Flavours of crushed rock, smoke, orchard fruit and slight baking spice. Lovely option for halibut in a caper-lemon sauce or creamy veal stew.