What We’re Drinking Now!

As we move into September, we have a good mix of wines to warm the cockles of your heart on cool early autumn evenings, plus a few refreshing thirst quenchers as cling desperately to the dwindling days of warmth and bright sunshine.

The LCBO is preparing for its biggest annual release of Ontario wines in a few weeks’ time. Ranging from the cheap and cheerful to the contemplative and serious, there will hopefully be something for everyone in this campaign, formerly known as “Go Local” to the newly coined “Shine On.” Spending a bit of time in Niagara this summer, we went shopping for some great bottles that are both favourites and new discoveries. Some of the wines listed here are not included in the LCBO release, but are in good supply at the wineries or online.

13th Street “BGPP” Rosé, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2011
$19.95 13thstreetwinery.com
A blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, this copper-hued pink is more manly than one might expect; a bit tight on first blush (ha, ha) but after a bit of aeration, it opens up nicely with funky, mineral driven aromas and orchard fruit undertones of nectarine, pithy citrus and tart pomegranate. A great choice for soft, earthy cheeses like brie or camembert.

Joseph Cattin Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France 2011
$15.95 Vintages 224642
A great option when looking for a bright, clean thirst quencher for those fatigued by the “been there, done that” ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. However, the closely related Pinot Blanc still offers comfort to the Grigio lovers at your pool party who are not quite ready to cut the cord. Pouring pale, star-bright yellow, this has a fairly aromatic nose of stone fruit, citrus and melon. Refreshing and crisp with peach, cantaloupe and slightly mineral flavours, this light bodied white offers a great backbone of acidity that would be a lovely way to start any dockside dinner.

Anselmi “San Vincenzo”, Veneto, Italy 2012
$15.95 Vintages 948158
A classic go to white, made mostly of Garganega with some Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the blend. A lovely nose of ripe tropical fruit, honey and sweet citrus, the palate is medium bodied and fleshy with slightly off dry flavours of honey, peach, guava and a vague floral note. Very pretty and dependable. Try with grilled white fish, pasta in pesto sauce or seafood risotto.

Cave Spring “CSV” Estate Bottled Riesling, VQA Beamsville Bench, 2010
$29.95 Vintages 566026
Riesling is one of the varietals that Ontario does best, and Cave Spring is one of the top producers. This is the winery’s top tier Riesling, offering  delicious sweet-tart key lime, stoney mineral, and apple flavours. Light and focused this offers a delicate balance between focused acidity and sugar. A lovely, elegant wine for enjoying with everything from scallop ceviche to duck confit.

Le Clos Jordanne “Le Grand Clos” Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2009
$65 Vintages 34561
Elegant and supple, this pours bright gold, with aromas of lemon meringue, roasted hazelnut, and poached pear with a smokey, corn nut note. The palate is rich and full with flavours of crème brûlée, lemon pudding, toast and a subtle salty note. Powerful with a lengthy finish, and lovely balance between bright acid and moderate alcohol, this is a refined Chardonnay to be sure, but almost borders on opulent.

13th Street “Sandstone Reserve” Gamay Noir, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula 2011
$29.95 13thstreetwinery.com
Some may accuse us of being on a personal mission to lure wine lovers to the Gamay side. And those accusers are right. Not only do we think Gamay is a grape that excels in Ontario, but we love its versatility, food friendliness and easy quaffability. One of Ontario’s top producers for Gamay is 13th Street, whose Sandstone Reserve is a masculine, edgy and slightly rustic example. With savoury aromas of crushed black pepper, bay leaf, dark earth and black cherry/cassis, and a medium bodied palate marked by firm tannin and slightly sour-edged acidity, this may not appeal to lovers of fun and flirty Beaujolais, but offers plenty of oomph and heartiness that will find plenty of fans.

Tenuta di Trecciano Colli Sensi Chianti, Italy 2011
$15.95 Vintages 86314
A medium bodied, fruity red that benefits from decanting a surprisingly long time. Upon opening this was initially closed, with hard edged, and slightly sour flavours. Closing it back up, we decided to give it another shot a day or two later, and are happy to report a very enjoyable wine with a nose of cherry, blackberry Halls cough drops, crushed black pepper, barnyard and fresh rosemary. The palate is bright and round with fine tannin, fresh acidity and flavours of ripe berries, dark fruit, and clay. Excellent value and a nice pairing to medium cheeses, grilled mushrooms or simple steaks.

Bodega Del Abad dom Bueno Crianza Bierzo, Spain 2006
$14.95 Vintages 244699
This is an incredibly valued wine! Deeply concentrated flavours of dark, almost macerated fruits, mocha and toasty, woodsy notes. Rich, powerful and full, with moderate tannin and balanced alcohol and acidity, this is a terrific buy that’s worthy of picking up by the case.

Tawse “Growers Blend” Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2010
$26.95 tawsewinery.ca
A lovely ripe and plush Cab Franc with black cherry and cassis, mixing with baking spice and smokey notes. Full and rich on the palate with refined tannins and bright acidity, this is an indulgent wine to enjoy with barbecued ribs, marinated flank steak or eggplant parmesan.

Stratus Syrah, VQA Niagara on the Lake 2010
$48 stratuswines.com
Elegant and refined, leaning more towards a peppery, mineral northern Rhone style,despite the hot vintage.  Plenty of crushed black pepper and spice on the nose, accompanied by ripe blackberry, smoke and a certain meatiness. The palate is full but restrained, with firm tannin and balanced acidity, and flavours of cocoa, blackberries, and subtle toasty oak notes. Excellent structure and length.

Tawse Meritage VQA Niagara Peninsula 2010
$59.95 tawsewinery.ca
A blockbuster of a wine that balances power with elegance. Primarily Merlot and Cabernet Franc with some Cabernet Sauvignon, the nose offers rich red and black fruits, spice and juniper notes. Full and dense on the palate with cassis and black cherry, cedar and smokey sandalwood notes mixing with some dark chocolate and vanilla. Ready to drink now with roast beef or grilled lamb, this will also be rewarded with some time in the cellar and can easily go until 2020.