Something for Everyone: Wines of South Africa Offer Old World Charm and New World Flavour

When we were little, our dad worked in the wine industry.

He would often travel the world on business and come home with wonderful tales of sprawling vineyards, magnificent chateaus, dusty caves and impressive cellars.

One day, sitting around our dinner table, he asked us if we knew South Africa made wine.

“Nope,” we answered sipping our milk. Being still in the single digit age bracket, it was challenging for us to wrap our young heads around the idea that life could be happening beyond our one-block world. The fact that a distant land was making wine registered as a resounding “0” on our radars.

Even though South Africa has been making wines since 1659, in the 80’s it’s arguable very few Canadians were aware of the storied and lengthy history of wine making on a continent half a world away. The crisp Chenin Blancs, robust Cabernets and distinctive Pinotages for which South Africa is known, would have to wait a few more decades before they managed to wade their way into our drinking consciousness.

Economic sanctions against South Africa kept much of its wines within its own borders, and a significant portion of what was made was over produced bulk grapes destined for fortified brandies. It wasn’t until apartheid ended in 1994, that foreign investment – and foreign experience and knowledge – flooded into the country. The large co-op, KWV, which virtually ran South Africa’s wine and alcohol scene since the 30’s, was dismantled as a cooperative and turned into a company, and new wineries began popping up across the stunning landscape.

A few weeks ago, we were invited to take part in a trade tasting of about 25 wines or so, followed by lunch with Tselane Mokuena, South Africa’s Consul General to Canada. She spoke of the incredible leaps her home country has made in the last 20 years. She recalled studying by candlelight as a student, while now the majority of the country enjoys  readily available electricity. She remembered as a young black girl running from the police and their racism and now backs and whites mingle freely. And she also proudly announced how many serious political ministries in South Africa have women at their helm – an advancement that was unthinkable only a few decades ago.

Urging the crowd to report on the positive development of South Africa, and not soley dwell on the work that still needs to be done, Ms. Mokuena highlighted South Africa’ s wine industry as a success story: whereas at one point black people employed by wineries were paid in alcohol (which is blamed for the country’s abhorrently high Fetal Alcohol Syndrome rate; it’s estimated 11% of children born on wine farms suffer from FAS), now many wineries are either owned by blacks or have black people employed in principal positions.

South Africa has also developed the non-profit WIETA organization, a group working towards the betterment of ethical and work safety conditions in the wine industry. It’s a challenge to be sure: Mokuena says out of 3,500 primary producers and 573 cellars, currently only 79 wineries meet the standards set out by WIETA. However, the hope is by the end of 2014 60% of South African wine growers will be granted the WIETA seal, showing they practice ethical employment standards and “reasonably safe” working conditions.

South Africa’s wine regions are concentrated on the Northern and Western Capes. Ideally situated between the Indian and Atlantic Oceans, afternoon breezes help cool the vines from bright afternoon sun, preserving acidity and allowing for balance. More than half the wines South Africa produces are whites – the bulk of which is crisp, citrusy, Chenin Blanc. China is South Africa’s biggest export market, followed closely by Germany, Belgium and the USA and Netherlands tying for fourth place. Canada comes in a respectable 5th.

On June 22, Vintages will feature South Africa in its biweekly release. Here are some of our top picks that are available in the LCBO now:

Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay, Western Cape 2011
$15.95 Vintages 328559
Pouring a medium straw, with an intriguing nose of raw pie dough and sweet tropical fruit. Firm, fresh and focused on the palate with bright acids and flavours of fresh citrus, yellow apple and subtle oak influence of coconut and vanilla nuance.

Avondale “Cyclus” White Blend, Paarl 2009
$29.95 Vintages 295220
A fleshy and round white blend made of 60% Viognier, with Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Semilion rounding out the balance. Bright gold in colour, with heady aromas of fig newton, sweet brioche, and honey notes. The palate is rich and full, with flavours of frehs apple sauce, sweet figs, white flowers, pastry crust and honeyed apricots.

Clos Malverne “Le Cafe” Pinotage, Stellenbosch 2011
$13.95 Vintages 315960
Pinotage was once regarded cautiously, as is was known for rusty, band-aid, rubbery flavours, but lately we’ve tasted a number that have gravitated more to a New World appeal. This falls mostly into the latter category with a nose of sweet, ripe dark berries, toffee, and coffee grounds. The nose follows through to the plush and velvety soft palate, plus additional flavours of spice cupboard, meat and leather. Not complex or deep, but an inexpensive, fruity quaffer with wide appeal for a party crowd.

Robertson “Prospect Hill” Cabernet Sauvignon, Robertson 2009
$17.95 Vintages 687814
A top buy in our minds as this strikes a highly enjoyable balance between Old World and New with aromas of dried fig, wet earth, cooking spice and ripe dark berries. Fine but firm tannin on the palate, dark fruit flavours more on the dried side than fresh, with a subtle leafiness, sharpened pencils, fig notes. Medium bodied and slightly rustic, almost Old World in style. Very appealing for the price.

Cathedral Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, Western Cape 2009
$15.95 Vintages 328567
We were very impressed with Cathedral Cellar’s entries (look for its red blend, Triptych, later this summer), as they offered wines of poise and class for terrific value. This Cab is a Vintages Essential and if you haven’t tried it in a while, it’s worth a second look. Inviting aromas of sweet blackberries, fresh leather, crushed peppercorn and cooking spice with a menthol freshness, the palate is ripe and plush, flavours match the nose, with a lingering black tea finish, firm acids and big tannin. Enjoyable and balanced.

Fairview “Caldera,” Coastal Region 2008
$22.95 Vintages 301333
Erin’s favourite of the tasting, this is rich and concentrated, striking a great balance between savoury rusticity and ripe fruit. A Grenache, Shiraz, Mouvedre blend, it pours ruby-garnet, with black currant, spicy, leather, slightly medicinal, dried prune/fig and black olive aromas. The palate is earthy, rustic and savoury with cooking spice, black pepper, black olive and ripe cassis and raspberry notes.

Boschendale “1685” Shiraz, Coastal Region 2010
$19.95 Vintages 96511
Deep purple in colour, this has black pepper, spice, fig, raw dough, and black olive aromas. Medium bodied on the palate with ripe and round flavours of red and black berries balanced by cured meat, smoke and earth.

Reyneke Syrah, Stellenbosch 2010
$24.95 316000
Aromas of fresh berries, smoked meat and cigar box with a subtle savoury minerality, the palate is full and broad with grippy tannins and balanced acidity and savoury flavours of fresh earth, black pepper spice, red and black berries and cigar tobacco. Elegant and fresh with power.