Inviting A Few Iconic Bottles to Dinner

We normally sing the praises of great wine finds under $20. Heck, under $15, when we can find them.

But one of the great joys of doing what we do is getting opportunities – albeit relatively rare ones – to indulge in the iconic wines of our industry; the First Growth Bordeaux, pioneering California Cabs, the statured Rieslings of Germany.

It’s tough to find those wines for less than $20, so when someone else is springing for the Big Bottles, we can’t help but get a teensy bit excited, as there’s a reason these wines have gone down in the annals of time as legends, icons and all-around superstars.

Sure we’re content with our Fords and Toyotas, but when handed the keys to a Rolls Royce, you can bet we’re taking her for a spin. Like buying a print of Picasso or Matisse, and then visiting the museum where the masterpieces are housed, you can’t help but feel a jolt of electric excitement to bear witness to these great creations.

This weekend we were asked to attend a dinner where the some of the world’s leading wines were being poured. It’s not everyday we get to idly sit around chatting about magnificent wines from magnificent vintages, so when the call of duty sounds, we feel it’s our obligation to answer.

Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Auslese Riesling, Saar, Germany 2006

$199.90 (orig. $247) Vintages 720359

The first course of seared scallops in a spicy orange jus was paired with the wine Erin was most excited about, Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Auslese Riesling. Müller is the forth Egon to run the famed, 20-acre Scharzhofberger vineyard. Taking over from his father, Egon, in 1991, to produce Germany’s most expensive and fabled white wines, these Rieslings are known for their delicate sweetness, buoyed by refreshing acidity.  Indeed, wines of this repute for etherial lightness, intense fruit and gracefully long aging have made Egon Müller’s wines among the most sought after in Germany.

The 2006 vintage was challenging in Germany, which saw early spring bud break and heavy autumn rainfalls, prompting complaints of diluted wines.  However, we once had a winemaker tell us that there are no bad vintages for good winemakers – do with that what you will – and in this case, it seems to be very true for good old Egon.

Bright, golden yellow with a rich, sweet nose key lime, mineral, and orange jam. Full and unctuous on the palate with sweet, honeyed citrus fruit, asian spice, white flowers and candied kumquat. Fantastic mouthwatering acidity for balance. Enjoyable now, but you would be well rewarded with leaving this in the cellar for another few years.

Beaulieu Vineyard “Georges de Latour Private Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California 1997

When Georges de Latour bought the 4-acre parcel of land in the small Napa town of Rutherford, his wife allegedly whispered, “Quel beau lieu,” meaning “what a beautiful place.”

From the get-go BV was a pioneering force in California; Georges’ experience and knowledge of root stock helped rebuild the Napa Valley wine industry, which was in the grips of phylloxera devastation. In the 1930’s Georges returned to Bordeaux seeking an experienced winemaker to raise the bar in BV’s wine production. He found Russian expat André Tchelistcheff, who was working at the Institut National Agronomique in Paris, and enlisted him as his head winemaker.

Under Tchelistcheff direction BV Cabs gained cult status; served at White House functions and must haves in collectors’ cellars. Tchelistcheff played mentr to other notable California winemakers including Joe Heitz of Heitz Cellars, Mike Grgich who was with Chateau Montelena at the time, and Robert Mondavi.

1997 in California was a superb vintage offering both quality and quantity wines. In fact, the ’97 BV is drinking very well now, but it had the stuff to go strong until 2020. Either way, it was well enjoyed with the second course of 5-Spice Duck Breast Salad.

Still pouring ruby red with little showing of garnet, and expressive aromas of macerated dark berries, fresh leather and rosemary/sage wild herbs. The palate is round and full with chewy tannins, ripe black berries, chocolate, currant and cedar notes. Very enjoyable.

Heitz Cellar “Martha’s Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California 1991

Courtney picked up a bottle of the ’05 Martha’s Vineyard when we were last in California, as it’s her step-daughter’s birth year. Interestingly, the evening’s host had purchased earlier vintages for his kids’ birth years. Clearly this wine has staying power.

1991 in California had a lower than normal temperatures, which allowed for longer hang time for the fruit. The best producers, especially in the Rutherford/Oakville areas of Napa, ended up with fragrant and complex wines of power and concentration.

Deep ruby, with only the slightest tinges of garnet – if any. A little wound up, and an hour or more of decanting proved helpful – as did more time in the glass. Aromas and flavours of eucalyptuse/mint, ripe blackberry fruit, black cherry and soft spice.  Fleshy and ripe with soft, but present  tannin.

Chateau Latour, Paulliac, Bordeaux 1990

The reputed 1990 vintage is the third in a triumvirate of superb Bordeaux vintages, with dry growing season relieved by rains at the end of August and a dry, cool September for harvest.

Latour, arguably King of the 1855 Club, is known for its Cabernet Sauvignon dominated blends of power, structure and masculinity, that take decades to evolve.

Indeed this wine still has plenty of life left and can easily be held safely for a few more years to come. Still showing lots of earthy complexity with gravelly mineral, cedar and spice aromas mixing with dark cherry, cassis, and ripe plum fruit. Mid-weight and smooth on the palate with finely integrated tannins, and flavours of earth, cherry, cassis, stone, black pepper spice and sweet tobacco. A great pairing with final dinner course herb-crusted lamb loin, as well as Bleu Bénédictin and Le 1608 from Laiterie Charlevoix that accompanied the cheese course.