January’s Hottest Ticket: Niagara Icewine Festival!

Posted by: samy January 21, 2013 No Comments

Melting ice — The first weekend of Niagara’s Icewine Festival was so warm ice was melting. The second weekend, wind warnings closed the Icewine Village in NOTL.

It’s amazing how one howling night of subzero temperatures and wind warnings can wipe out the memories of the January warm-up we just went through.

With a wind warning in effect, Niagara’s Icewine Festival was forced to close its Icewine Village in Niagara on the Lake – when just yesterday tourists were enjoying the sweet nectar in a far more civilized 7˚C above zero.

And last weekend, the festival’s kick off, was downright hot. With temperatures getting into the double digits, the Sorrel boots and puffy jacket Erin brought to celebrate was irritatingly stuffy and claustrophobic in the spring-like air.

But there’s probably no better illustration than this roller coaster climate – with its dramatic 20 degree swings in 24 hour periods – to show what winemakers go through when trying to harvest their Icewine grapes.

It’s a game of hurry up and wait, as crews keep a watchful eye on the forecasts to see when the mercury will get down to at least -8˚C (the minimum requirement to legally pick Icewine), though many will prefer to pick in the extremity-numbing -12˚C.

Chatting over a glass at the kick-off gala for Niagara’s Annual Icewine Festival, Jamie Slingerland, Director of Viticulture for Pillitteri Estates Winery, told Erin he picked for 27 hours straight – which isn’t necessarily that unusual as winemakers must race against the weather to take advantage of the frigid climes when they blow in.

Living in Canada, you wouldn’t think it would be much of a nail biter waiting for subzero temps. But as this past week proved, there’s a January thaw every year in Ontario. We heard on the news that the only time in recent history when we didn’t experience a mid-winter warm up was in 1977.

So that means Niagara winemakers will stand on guard for thee liquid gold — and arguably Canada’s tastiest export – usually heading out into the dark and frozen fields whenever Mother Nature beckons. But just like squeezing droplets of juice from rock-hard grapes, so must winemakers squeeze the most out of the sub-zero weather, as you never know when Old Man Winter may loosen his grip.

Is it worth it? Sure. Wildly popular around the world, Icewine put Canada on the global stage as serious wine producers. A small 375 ml. bottle can run into the hundreds of dollars, though the average price generally ranges somewhere between $40 – $80. (If you’d like to know more on the history of Icewine and what it takes to make it, read our blog here).

To celebrate all that is good and holy about the sweet nectar of Niagara, for the last 18 years the region has been throwing a frozen festival that has Icewine aficionados coming out in droves to sample the sweet stuff and try it alongside Icewine-themed foods, like Peller Estates’ Icewine Marshmallows that has taken on a cult like status as guests can roast them over the open fires set up at the winery.

Weekend street festivals in Jordan Village and Niagara on the Lake are pleasantly packed with visitors trying and re-trying the wines, taking in some live music or feasting at a plethora of food trucks. And for those intent on learning all they can, Get Schooled in Cool tastings are happening at several Niagara wineries.

If you can’t make it to the Icewine Festival, there’s plenty of bottles available to order from the wineries or purchase at the LCBO. Here are some of our favourites – and if you’d like to see what this event is all about, scroll on down to take a look at our photo album!

The Wine Sisters’ Icewine Picks

Peller Estates “Signature Series” Vidal Icewine, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2010

$54.95 375 ml., peller.com
Already an orange/amber hue, this rich, unctuous sweetie has aromas of crunchy white fruit, lychee, honey, tangerine/peach and a hint of dried fennel seed. Quite lush and full on the palate, flavours follow through with tangerine peel, buckwheat honey, ripe peach and canned lychee in syrup. Pair with soft and runny cheeses after coming in from the slopes.

Strewn Vidal Icewine, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2008

$24.95, 375 ml., Vintages 467746
Elegant and retrained with slightly earthy aromas of paraffin and honey comb, apple pie, butterscotch, marmalade and pineapple. Great balance on the palate, with the same earthy notes countering the rich, ripe tropical fruit and honeyed notes. Likewise, the elevated acidity keep things nice and focused. Very enjoyable with pâtés – and a great price, to boot.

Cave Spring Riesling Icewine, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2008

$49.95, 375ml., Vintages 447441
Fantastic citrus aromas of lemon/lime and clementine orange mixed with roasted caraway seed, mincemeat and that telltale petrol. Round and fresh on the palate with petrol, lime peel, a touch of pine, butterscotch and candied orange peel. Terrific length, pair this with lemon crème brûlée or grilled peaches and halloumi cheese.

Caroline Cellars Chardonnay Icewine, VQA Niagara on the Lake 2009

$42, 375ml., carolinecellars.com
A nice break from the usual Riesling and Vidal Icewines, this Chardonnay is a lovely sipper with toasty corn, pumpkin and tropical fruit aromas. Bright on the palate, with crunchy white fruits, honey, peach and tropical mango/papaya. Enjoy this with shortbread or vanilla biscotti or with a main course of duck confit.

Henry of Pelham Cabernet Icewine, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2011

$39.95, 200ml., Vintages 672402
100% Cabernet Franc, this pours a pretty salmon rose colour, with cheerful aromas of watermelon, strawberry and fresh lime. Bright, fruit and fresh on the palate with delicious flavours of ripe red berries and key lime pie. Dangerously easy to drink either alone or paired with fresh druit desserts.

Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Icewine, VQA Niagara Peninsula 2008

$99.95 357ml., inniskillin.com
Pale raspberry in colour with inviting aromatics of fresh fig, raspberry concentrate and strawberry fruit leather. Medium bodied with fresh acidity and great balance look for ripe red berry fruit, figs and strawberry jam. Terrific length. Try with salty meats like proscuitto or a simple flan dessert.

Château des Charmes Cabernet Franc Icewine, VQA Niagara on the Lake 2008

$75, 375 ml., chateaudescharmes.com
Beautiful deep ruby-garnet, this is reminiscent of Amarone, with flavours and aromas more towards rich, ripe fruit rather than the sweet honeyed nectar of typical Icewine. Aromas of plum and raspberry jam, black licorice nibs, baking spice and raisin/prune which follow through to the full bodied palate with the additional flavours of brandied cherry, vanilla bean and ripe black currant. Very fine effort that would be rewarded with pairings of fine, dark chocolate, blue cheese and braised red meats like beef short ribs or osso buco.