A Winning Collaboration at Stratus Vineyards
Finally! June is here!
This is the month we’ve been waiting for — though not as much for summer’s arrival as for the release of the first wines to come out of the partnership between Stratus winemaker JL Groux and consulting winemaker Paul Hobbs.
Some of you may remember back in November 2009 when Stratus announced it was hiring the Sonoma-based Hobbs to work alongside Groux in an effort to produce the best wines Niagara could achieve.
Some interesting things have come out of the collaboration between the two winemakers: not the least of which is a promising Malbec, that just a few years ago Groux says didn’t think could be done in Ontario.
“It has to be up there,” said Groux of Malbec, holding his hand in the air at head-height. “If it’s not up there we don’t do it.”
Arguably, Stratus’ first attempt at Malbec is “up there” as dining room full of invited wine critics, sommeliers, and wine writers nodded in approval.
“Some of the top Malbecs are grown in the top shoulders of the Andes,” said Hobbs, who has earned international acclaim for his work in Argentina, as well as France, Hungary and California. “We can ripen Malbec every year as long as we thin properly. It gives more floral/violet characteristics in cold climates.”
Hobbs grew up in upstate New York, just across the lake from where he’s consulting now. His dad grew grapes for local wineries — mostly French-American hybrids — and Hobbs helped his father plant the vineyard, but growing up he never thought he would become a world famous oenologist.
“I wanted to be a doctor,” Hobbs laughs, saying it wasn’t until his senior year at Notre Dame University in Vienna during a botany class that he realized he could be a winemaker.
Hobbs got his start with Robert Mondavi, moved on to Opus One and eventually opened his namesake Sonoma winery in 1991 and Vina Cobos in Argentina in 1999. He has worked all over the world with current consulting projects in Cahors, France and Hungary in addition to working with Groux at Stratus.
Groux, a celebrated winemaker in his own right, hails from Loire, France, and studied winemaking in both Bordeaux and Burgundy before traveling to the world to learn more. Landing in Niagara in the 80’s, he joined Hillebrand and moved to Stratus in 2004.
Because of the impressive backgrounds of both men, you’d think there would be a cat fight, or backstabbing, or someone locked in his trailer sobbing to be left alone. But nothing seems to be further from the truth; instead of ego and obdurateness, the affable relationship between the two winemakers appears easy and congenial, like two old friends with honest mutual admiration for each other’s expertise.
Referring to Groux affectionately as “a mad scientist,” Hobbs says he was more interested in learning than changing things at Stratus, and working in tandem with Groux.
“I think we did somewhat of a blend of approaches,” Hobbs said. “We tweaked a lot of things.”
Stratus Chardonnay VQA Niagara on the Lake, 2009
$55
Available at the winery in June 2012
A stunning example of Chardonnay this has a nose of pineapple, tropical fruit & a hint of mushroom & minerality. Creamy & rich on the palate, with flavours of butterscotch ripple ice cream, fresh mango, pear nectar and grilled pineapple. A nice seam of acidity keeps things focused & fresh.
Stratus Syrah VQA Niagara on the Lake, 2009
$48
Available at the winery in June 2012
Elegant, restrained and poised this wine is reminiscent of northern Rhone Syrahs, with a nose of crushed black pepper and cooking spice, dark plums and tobacco leaf. Spicy on the palate with chalky-mineral, dark fruit with fine tannin and a sour plum/cherry finish.
Stratus Malbec VQA Niagara on the Lake, 2009
$48
Available at the winery in June 2012
Malbec lovers take note: if this is the future of Malbec in Ontario, things are looking good. A mix of ripe berry fruit and herbs like menthol, fennel and dill on the nose. The palate offers an initially sweet entry with flavours of violet incense, milk chocolate, black cherry and cedar. Fairly grippy tannins and a tad tight, this could use a bit more time in the cellar.
Stratus Cabernet Franc VQA Niagara on the Lake 2008
$38.20
Vintages 665034
This was made before Hobbs’ appointment, but Hobbs said at the tasting he is very excited about what Ontario can do with Cab Franc, and we couldn’t agree more. This shows real elegance and finesse with a nose of black cherry fruit, smoke and mineral, with flavours of cassis, dried leaves, clay, earth and a touch of meat. Smooth, fine tannins make this Cab Franc very enjoyable, indeed.
Stratus White VQA Niagara on the Lake 2008
$44.20
Vintages 660704
Another pre-Hobbs wine, the Stratus white is a benchmark of the portfolio. An assemblage of several white varietals, mostly Chardonnay, Semillion & Sauvignon Blanc, with a touch of Gewurtztraminer & Viognier. What results is a wine with heady aromas of white flower, peach, lanolin and a hint of herbaciousness. Lush and creamy on the palate, with flavours of crisp lychee fruit, white peach and sweet mandarine orange.