A Charming Morning with Alvaro Palacios
The title for this blog was laboured over for some time.
Journalists are supposed to walk that objective line with superior and differential precision, and even though this is a blog, and not the hard hitting journalism that can be found on the front pages of humourless newspapers around the world, Erin’s former reporting career still holds tight — perhaps that’s why she’s such an epic drinker.
Anyway, after much debate and careful consideration, we decided, “what the hell?” (which frequently seems to be the best answer), and called this blog what it is, because if you’ve ever been lucky enough to find yourself in Alvaro Palacios’ presence, the only thing you may find more charming than this Spanish winemaker, is his wine.
Or should we say, wines. With bodegas in Rioja, Priorat and Bierzo, Palacios turns out hundreds of thousands of bottles each year. And unlike many factory wineries that spit out cases of swill for a hefty profit, Palacios, enjoys a global reputation for sophisticated, quality wines, that are full of complexity and character of the region.
Palacios is known as a pioneer, having shone a global spotlight on his beloved Spain and the unique terroirs that make up its vast terrain, he has nearly single handedly catapulted once-forgotten Spanish wine regions of mom and pop bodegas, into globally respected vineyards known for producing elegant, sophisticated, and powerful wines.
During the morning tasting in downtown Toronto, he complained sadly to the crowd that Rioja — his home, and arguably the most famous of all the Spanish wine regions, is huge, spanning more than 120 kilometers with 14-thousand vineyards; to label the entire area under one umbrella, is a disservice, to say the least.
He’ll be the first to tell you that his vineyards in Rioja Baja vary greatly from the vineyards in Rioja Alta; Baja is hotter, with warmer soils and less rainfall, so Palacios plants mostly Garnacha and a bit of Monastrell as these grapes do better in this climate than Tempranillo, which is favoured in Rioja Alta.
He points to France, in Bordeaux, where he studied at the university and then worked for the prominent Moueix family at the famed Chateau Pétrus. France’s esoteric and obsessive renaming of the smallest parcel of land based on the tiniest change in typography, inspired Palacios to champion the same for Spain’s vineyards.
Even though Palacios comes from a family that’s been making wine for 350 years in Spain (he was born at the family’s Rioja winery Palacios Remondo, where his mother still lives) and today enjoys global praise for his wines, his start was humble, to say the least.
In 1989, after returning home from studying and working in France and Napa, Palacios travelled to Priorat, at the urging of French winemaker, René Barbier, who was working for Palacios’ father at the time.
Seeing the beauty and potential, Palacios sold everything he owned and, with the support of his father but no money in his pocket, started planting vines with Barbier and a few others. Eventually he opened his namesake winery, Alvaro Palacios, and four years later, he would buy his famed L’Ermita plot, which today, produces wines priced about $600 a bottle.
In 1999, Palacios’ nephew, Ricardo, discovered the beauty of Bierzo, a lush and green wine growing region in Northwest Spain. Convincing Palacios to open a third winery, the two partnered up to open Descendientes de J. Palacios, which produces gorgeous wines mostly from the native Mencía grape.
When Palacios’ father died in 2000, Palacios took over as winemaker at Palacios Remondo from his brother, (“We love each other, but we cannot work together,” he says).
Now, after 20 years on his own as a winemaker and businessman, and earning global praise for resurrecting long-forgotten about wine regions of Spain, Palacios isn’t slowing down. He continues to push for a village labeling system, similar to that of France, and encourages winemakers to embrace the traditional methods of winemaking.
At today’s tasting guests were treated to 10 wines from all three of Palacios’ bodegas. Below are what we think are the highlights of the tasting.
In Ontario, Palacios’ wines are represented by Woodman Wines and Spirits. To order, visit woodmanwinesandspirits.com
Descendientes de J. Palacios “Petalos del Bierzo” Bierzo, 2010 – $26
When this wine hit Vintages about a month ago, it was gone in a matter of weeks. Luckily we scooped up about half a case before it diappeared and now we’re evaluating visiting friends to see if they’re worth opening a bottle and sharing it with them. Usually the answer is no.
Anyway, despite being the entry level wine for the Bierzo bodega, it’s a serious wine. With aromas of red raspberry, strawberry and violet, on the palate it follows through with floral and herbacious notes along with red berry fruit. Beautiful with grilled steak or rosemary crusted lamb.
Descendientes de J. Palacios “Villa de Corrullon” Bierzo, 2009 – $49
This is the big brother to Petalos. Elegant & pretty, this perfumed ruby wine is smooth with red & black cherry flavours, along with blueberry, smoke, milk chocolate and a hint of spice. Serve this at a Spanish themed dinner party alongside seared duck breast and lentils or rabbit and eggplant stew.
Alvaro Palacios “Les Terrasses” Priorat 2010 – $45
A blend of Carignan & Garnacha, this is masculine and complex with grippy tannins and bold flavours of coffee, juicy blackberry, plum and black pepper spice. Try this with braised oxtail, or spicy chorizo sausage.
Alvaro Palacios “Finca Dofi” Priorat 2009 – $90
80% Garnacha with the Cabernet Sauvignon & Syrah making up the rest, this is deep purple wine is more earthy than the rest in the lineup with flavours and aromas of dark chocolate, red cherry, strawberry, baking spice and wet earth. It’s something to open on chilly nights with a fireside dinner of roast beef or veal chops.
Palacios Remondo “La Montesa” Rioja 2009 – $21
The easiest drinking in the lineup, Palacios says this is the most important of the family winery. About 700 thousand bottles are produced each year. This is 65% Garnacha with Tempranillo and Mazuelo rounding out the remaining. A beautiful nose of pomegranate, raspberry concentrate, fresh orange peel and sage/bay leaf. Mid-weight with red berry fruits, black licorice and coffee bean on the palate, this would be beautiful with rabbit paella or tapas of dates stuffed with blue cheese and jamon.